Sunday, May 8, 2011

Post Africa (Israel, Switzerland, U.S. and Turkey)

We returned to Israel after spending one month in Ethiopia. Shortly after arriving at the airport and going through immigration/customs, I ordered coffee and croissants at an airport cafe. The warm drink and tasty sweet were about the same cost as eating for a few days in Ethiopia but it was worth it. Sheer and I sat at a table with our treats and looked at the people around us. While flaky bits of croissant accumulated on my beard and fleece, I observed people of many races speaking many languages (including Amharic). It was so nice to be around diversity, to not be pointed and shouted at. We were… normal, everyone was normal, normally different. It was bliss to return to this universe.

We spent under a week in Israel (with Sheer’s folks) visiting the beaches of Eilat and desert farms of the Negev (Sheer’s birthplace).

The Negev Desert

Goat farm in the Negev

Sun, waves, snorkeling, beers, and fried fish with Sheer's parents in Eilat

We visited Moshav Ein Yahav where, once upon time, Sheer's family farmed melons, peppers, and tomatoes in greenhouses.

Here's a view from a hill looking down on all the greenhouses in Ein Yahav
(Jordan is the land immediately to the left)

Melons!
Peppers!
Tasting fresh peppersGrapes!
Tasting fresh grapes

Then… we, Sheer and I, had to split up for a week. Sheer had a promising phone interview for a job in Houston and the next step was a sample lesson, but it had to be done in person. So Sheer took a chance and made the investment of returning to the U.S. for an interview. I had a week to kill without Sheer, so I looked for cheap flights from Israel. The cheapest flight ended up being to the hometown of my sister’s husband, Adrian: Basel, Switzerland. I’d already visited Basel twice in the past (one time for my sister’s wedding and another time with Sheer just a few years ago) and I knew I’d have a great time.

I did! I had a great time wandering the city, eating and drinking with Vombi (Adrian’s best bud), and visiting with Maria (Adrian’s mom).

Maria and Rolf greeting me with a fine Swiss meal on the patio during a beautiful spring day

Another very good dinner with Maria and her sister-in-lawI walked the city of Basel and took lots a picturesI checked off my list of pubs and restaurants (this is Kalbsbratwurfel at Hasenburg or "hot dogs and rice" at "some fancy place" in American)

One day I took the train to Bern and walked around, took pictures, and ate Indian food.

Beautiful Bern, Switzerland (the Alps in the far background)This is where the Swiss parliament reconfirms its neutralityAlbert Einstein's apartment
Back in Basel and after working hours, Vombi and I ate, drank, and hiked.

Swiss pub scene

Vombi and Ramona at his local pub (just a few doors down from his home)

A drive through the beautiful country roads of Switzerland

A spectacular view of the Alps after a country drive and nice hikePost-hike meal in the country, where all we could hear were birds chirping and stream water trickling while we devoured our rosti and sausage.We even went go-kart racing in France

All the while Sheer flew to the U.S., spent time with family and friends in NYC, flew to Houston, spent time with my family, and went in for the interview/sample lesson. After all was said and done, she got the job!

Sheer in NYC with Darwin (her brother's young, fit dog)
Shi, Darwin, and Sveta
Just DarwinSheer in Houston with my family

After a week apart we decided to meet up in Istanbul. I arrived at the airport, caught a bus to the city, and then a light rail to the stop nearest our hotel. On the train, a man just a few years older than me sat in the seat opposite of mine. After observing my appearance, he asked, “Are you from the U.S.?” “Yep,” I answered. “Whereabouts in the U.S.?” he continued. “Texas,” I said with a grin as big as Texas. “Texas! I’m from Tennessee!!” he exclaimed with excitement. “Great! Uhhh… thank you for Davy Crockett,” I replied. He apologized for his enthusiasm saying that it had been a long time since he’d spoken English to an American and especially an American from the South. We chatted up a little and said goodbye. It was one of those encounters that demonstrates how, at home, we often fail to appreciate how much we share in common with our neighbors and fellow Americans; and, abroad, we so easily and freely fall into grace with each other. He was a nice first person to meet. Oh, and by the way, he said that if anyone is looking to live abroad, teach English, and make good money (relative to the cost of living), Istanbul is the place.

That night Sheer and I reunited and had a nice dinner.
Birthday dancing and cheering at a bar
Istanbul is a very cool place. It’s very progressive for a Muslim country and feels very European.

Progressive behavior in IstanbulIstiklal Street (think BA's Calle Florida times 10)There are super cool places to eat around IstiklalLooking from the Asian side toward Europe

At times I would look around at all the locals and think, “Wow, it’s hard to believe that over 90% of the people walking around are Muslim.” I’m well aware, of course, that not all Muslims wear burkas or have long beards but I had never been in a predominantly Muslim society with so many people who appeared to be “Western” or secular or European. The Turkish people in general were very friendly and helpful. The Turkish food… eehhh, not so special (sorry Turks, just my spice-crazy opinion). Yeah, I like grilled meat but I’m from Texas where we are very used to the great Southern U.S. and Mexican influences on our bbq.

Turkish food... eehh

Turkish sweets... eehh. I'd rather have Swiss chocolates

The sights were amazing. The structures there looked so amazing that they seemed fake, like fairy tales.

The Blue Mosque, completed in 1616 AD (absolutely stunning)

Inside the Blue MosqueThe Hagia Sofia: former Church (360 AD), later Mosque (1453 AD), and now Museum (1931 AD)

The vast open space with the apparent lack of supporting pillars inside the Hagia Sofia is an engineering marvel Christian and Muslim art remains preserved

Underground cistern built in 523 AD

And, as usual, we did our fair share of walking the city's streets, markets, and parks.

Some streets were a bit touristy
Other streets had more of a local feel

The Markets


Beautiful parksAnd to top the days off, some shisha, beers, and pillows

A great surprise to us was that Sheer’s friend and former Houston coworker, Amelia, was visiting Istanbul the same time we were! Our last day overlapped with her first. We hung out at a hookah bar and took a walk through the city. It was great to see a familiar face in a strange land.

From left to right, Sarah (Amelia's travel partner), Amelia, and Sheer

Sheer and Amelia

After sharing a great afternoon with Amelia and Sarah, we caught our bus for Veliko Tornovo, Bulgaria.

Istanbul was a great experience. We left with smiles on our face, looking forward to enjoying the remaining six weeks of our trip.

1 comment:

  1. that graffiti in the last shot looks slop. hope you took some close ups all the same.

    -anonamonks

    ReplyDelete