Monday, October 11, 2010

Crossing Over to Northern Peru

We crossed the Ecuadorian-Peruvian border in the middle of the night by bus. I always get so excited when crossing borders by land. My mind is hyper-actively ready to jump to conclusions about cultural differences (or hypotheses rather). For example, if I cross a border by land and one of the first things I see is a few black goats, I might think, "All the goats in Peru are black." If I said this aloud and my philosopher, Jedi-like, friend Bryan were beside me on the bus, he might add, "One side of three goats in Peru is black."

Anyway, we crossed the border in the middle of the night and we were making jokes about how similar the cultures are: most noticeable differences were the currencies and the names of politicians painted on the sides of poor people's homes (most people's homes).

We did find it more difficult to understand people in Northern Peru compared with Ecuador (and especially Guatemala: the clearest Spanish I've heard, when comparing average experience by nation). In Northern Peru, they do not seem to care much for enunciation (a bunch of fast-talking mumblers). The food in Northern Peru, however... they do care very much for: it is delicious!

We stayed over one night in Tumbes, Peru (if you want to play a mean joke on someone, tell him that he has to visit Tumbes).

The following day we arrived in Mancora, Peru.

The beach in Mancora

Mancora is the "best un-kept secret of Peru." Peruvians and Ecuadorians flock to this hip, party beach town to surf, sunbathe, dance, drink and find that special someone... for the night. Luckily though, we arrived in the low season so it was relatively chill and cheap. We set up camp at a really cool hostel with hammocks and a cool, local cat.

Our digs in Mancora (1/2)

Our digs in Mancora (2/2)
On our second day there, I was watching the stock market go up and down at a cafe when I received an email from my sister in Atlanta, "Mom's eating at Espada looking for you guys." I popped my head up and asked the waitress, "Donde esta Espada?" The waitress pointed one block down and replied, "Alla." Five minutes later I was eating langostinos with my mom, Tio Johnny and my cousin Maria Fernanda.

More family came and went as the sun and moon danced over our heads. We ate seafood and drank beer while I caught up on the family gossip.

Tio Johnny's birthday in Mancora.
Left to right: me, Mom, Tia Maito, Mariela (cousin), Maria Fernanda (cousin), Tio Johnny and Fernando (cousin).

Yummy Seafood in Peru


We took surfing lessons too!
We caught waves and rode them in.

Sunset at Mancora

Then we started a band... here's the cover of our first album.
Left to right: Tio Johnny, Mom, Maria Fernanda and me.

After 4 days or so in Mancora, we jumped in Tio Johnny's Ford Explorer and headed for Piura. We spent the next few days visiting between Piura and Chulucanas. I have a lot of family in this area: uncles, aunts, cousins and other people I'm supposed to smile around. It's not uncommon for Sheer to ask me, "Are you related to him/her?" and for me to reply, "No importa." Even though this area is very hot and dusty, it's very special to me. My first memories were made here. As some of you know, I lived here for many months when I was 4 years old.

Family in Chulucanas,
Marcela took care of me when I lived here as a child.
Left to right: Mom, me, Tia Marcela and Jonathan (cousin).

Shopping for ceramics in the sweltering heat of Chulucanas.

It was really nice to spend time with my family up north. They have always been very hospitable to me (especially Tio Johnny). After about a week of family and good food (I always gain a few pounds when I visit), Sheer and I left for Lima by bus.

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